Orange County Tiles- detailed Notes

Make a tile stick to a show the size and spacing of the tiles. Start by lining the tiles up on the floor, separated by available plastic spacers the thickness of the grout line. With a square and pencil, mark a straight piece of wood showing the spacing between tiles. Visit the website Orange County Tiles – anaheim Stone

Draw a reference line around the room. In a bathroom, draw the line level with the tip of the tub. In other rooms, draw a level line around the room that’s halfway between the floor and ceiling. Draw a second horizontal line to lay out border tiles, if any. Plus, you will need to mark the location on recessed fixtures, like medicine cabinets.

In a bathroom with a knee wall, draw a line down the middle of it and transfer the line to the wall with a level. This vertical line will help center a grout line over the grout line in the knee wall.

Put the tile stick at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical reference lines. The horizontal line to show the edges of the tiles and the grout lines in between them.

Draw a vertical line marking the outside edge of the last full tile before the corner. Put the tile stick along it and mark the wall to show the location of the tiles and grout lines. When the time come, you will start tiling in this corner.

Mix a batch of mortar following the maker’s instructions. If the mortar does not contain latex, stir in a separate latex additive sold in tile stores or in the tile department. Latex strengthens the mortar and slows the drying rate, giving you more time to work.

Spread mortar on the wall for the full time that will be nearest to both the corner and the floor. Spread the mortar with a notched trowel; the size and shape of the notch controls how much mortar gets on the wall. Be sure to follow the tile manufacturer’s guideline.

Put a full tile on the wall at the intersection of your reference line. One the tile is in place then measure the gap below it. Subtract the width of a grout line from this measurement and use the combination square to mark a line on the face of a tile to get the right size.

To cut the tile, place it face up in a tile cutter. Align the cutting mark on the tile with the guide on the cutter. Put the cutting wheel down and pull the handle toward you, scoring the tile. Life the cutting wheel, lower the pressing tee, and push the handle down sharply to snap the tile along the scored line.

Back-butter tiles in area where it’s difficult to apply mortar to the wall. Depending on the size of the space, it may be hard to put mortar in the area along the floor or near the corner. If so, apply mortar to the back of the tile, using the same notched trowel that was used on the wall.

Put a tile spacer between the cut tile and the one above and push the tile into the wall. Spacers are sold in tile departments and come in many different width. Make sure you get the ones that match the width of the grout line recommended by the tile maker.

To lay out cuts on corner tiles, put a tile directly over the last full tile installed. Place another tile so the edge butts against spacers set against the wall. Trace along the edge of the top tile onto the middle tile to mark it for cutting. Cut the tile to size, and set it in the mortar.

Continue setting tiles, aligning them with the reference lines and using spacers to keep them the right distance apart. Cut holes for obstacles with an electric drill fitted with a tile cutting tool. Mark the center of the hole on the tile, then set the diameter of the cutter to the size of the hole. Clamp the tile to a piece of scrap wood on a flat surface and cut the hole, using slow speed on a variable speed drill.

Make notches and curved cuts in tile by clamping the tile to fitted with an abrasive blade designed for cutting tile.

Put the tile over the obstruction as you work you way along the wall. Make sure you keep the grout lines uniform so that this tile does not create problems for tiles you put in later.

Cut tiles to leave spaces for accessories as you are tiling. Apply 1/8 inch of thinsedt mortar to the wall and to the back of the accessory. Set it into the space you left for it. Support it with masking tape until the mortar is dry.

Install the border tiles when you reach the lines marking their location. Border tiles dress up a wall and are no harder to install that all the other tiles. Put the tiles in place with spacer between them and their neighbors. Follow the layout line carefully so that the border remains level.

Install the trim tiles, such as bullnose edge tiles, at the upper edge of tile that sops before it reaches the ceiling. Bullnose tiles have one or more edges rounded over for a finished look. Tile going all the way up to the ceiling needs no trim. If needed, trim regular tile to fit in the space above the last full tile.

Tile the knee wall when you get to it. Keep the grout lines aligned with those on the wall, and keep the tiles level, Tile the top and front edge with bullnose tiles that are only half as front corner of the knee wall with double bullnose, which has two edges rounded over. Install it first, and then trim a single bullnose to fit next to it.

Remove plastic spacers and let the thinset dry. Mix enough grout to fill the joints. Working in 3-foot-square sections, just apply grout in a sweeping motions with a rubber grout float held at 45 degree angle to the wall. Do not grout joints along the floor, the bathtub, or room corners.

All the manufacturer’s recommended time for the grout to set, then wipe joints with a lightly damp grout sponge to remove most of the excess grout. Rinse the sponge frequently in clean water. Wait about 2 hours and sponge away remaining excess. After waiting the time specified by the maker for the grout to fully dry, use a special applicator or small foam brush to apply a coating of silicone sealer to the joints to help prevent stains and mildew.